Best bathing spots in El Hierro

El Hierro is just 35km along its longest axis and yet in this tiny speck of land lost in the mighty ocean encompasses an astonishing variety of attractions: lush cloud forests, ancient trees twisted by the stiff ocean breeze, soaring peaks emerging above a sea of clouds, wild ocean waves and sheltered coves perfect for snorkelling, barren lava floes misty uplands that bring to mind rural Ireland.

I will begin with the most obvious attraction, and one that dominates almost every landscape on the island; the ocean. There are very few beaches as such on El Hierro and only in the south of the island, in the Mar de las Calmas, can you swim in the open sea. Elsewhere on the island, you need to visit one of the many excellent protected bathing spots if you wish to experience the great pleasure of swimming in the warm, crystal clear water the island is known for. Get yourself a mask and snorkel tube, or at the very least some swimming goggles, to enjoy the abundant sea life and spectacular submarine seascapes.

La Maceta

The closest bathing spot to Finca Afortunada is La Maceta, a 5 minute drive or a 20-minute walk away along the costal path. A stone and concrete wall holds back the ocean waves and creates a protected swimming area suitable for children and less confident swimmers. Be careful at high tide as the waves come over the wall and the water can get quite choppy. Part of the attraction of La Maceta is the Kiosco La Maceta, at the north end of the parking area where you can enjoy a beer and all sorts of fried fish. At the other end, there is a decent restaurant, Aguaviva (currently closed).

The other swimming areas you will need to drive to. A couple of hundred metres southwest (you need to go back to the HI-550 road to find the turn) is the Charco de los Sargos, a much wilder place altogether and suitable for more confident swimmers.

Los Sargos

The cove is fairly well protected from ocean waves but caution is advised. Avoid swimming at high tide and take a few moments to check the state of the water before venturing in. There is a cave here you can swim through and come out the other side when the tide isn’t too high. If you swim into the cave at the back of the main pool and climb onto the shore you can re-enter the water further in and, if the tide isn’t too high, swim all the way out to the other side. You end up on the shore a little way to the south. Wear water shoes as walking barefoot over volcanic rock is excruciating. On the way back to the car park there is a path off to the left which takes you to some interesting rock formations. You can climb down from here (not for the faint-hearted) to another stony beach at the end of which there is another cave, from where it is possible to wade along the shore to La Maceta in low tide.

Los Sargos

There are also some child-friendly paddling pools off to the left of the main swimming area.

Several kilometres further southwest along the H-550 look out for a sign, and a very sharp right-hand bend, to Charco Azul. Here there is a beautiful pool which you enter from beneath a natural rock arch.

Charco Azul

Further southwest still passing the spa Pozo de la Salud and then a section of the road that is covered to protect cars from falling boulders you come to Arenas Blancas, which gets its name from the sand made from crushed shells. It’s a beautiful spot but not a place to swim given the strength of the waves and the numerous concealed boulders.

Arenas Blancas

The next stop-off along this route is the Arco de la Tosca, a mighty natural rock arch. Look out for an unsigned rough track to the right. It’s marked on Google maps but bear in mind that there is no phone coverage in this part of the island.

Arco de la Tosca

Back on the main road, proceed on through a spectacular landscape strewn with black boulders and at a road junction look for the sign to El Verodal, which you reach after driving about 400m along a dirt road.  This is one of the very few beaches on El Hierro, a great place to swim and sunbathe.

Playa del Verodal

This beach is officially closed due to the risk of falling rocks but there are generally a few people here willing to take the risk. There is good snorkelling on the rocky right-hand shore.

The other fork at the junction takes you via a mountain road to three important El Hierro attractions, first being the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Reyes, the holiest shrine on the island. From here you drive a short distance along a dirt track to El Sabinar, a fascinating grove of ancient juniper trees twisted into whimsical shapes by the wind.

El Sabina

Back on the main road, follow the signs to the El Faro, not the most interesting lighthouse but there is a jetty nearby where you can swim in the open ocean. Near the lighthouse, look for a path through the lava field to the unmarked entrance to a cave which traverses a good 100m until finally reaching an opening where you are rewarded with sweeping views over the waves.

El Faro

If it’s a dull day at Finca Afortunada or Casa La Torre, chances are it will be sunny here down in the south. The other lovely bathing spot down here is the Playa de Tacarón, but from El Faro it’s a long drive along a dirt road and not great for hire cars. A better plan is to drive there from the other side of the tunnel, via Guarazoca, San Andres and El Pinar, a route which takes you through an enchanted landscape of verdant pasture, mossy cloud forest and fragrant pine woods. The turning to Tacarón is on the right, about a kilometre below El Pinar in a parched land of lava and ash. Much of the coastal water round here in the Mar de Calmas is a marine reserve and the snorkelling is superb. Look out for trumpetfish, parrotfish and damselfish, among many others. There’s a kiosk at Tacarón but not much else so bring a picnic, or after working up an appetite snorkelling you can have some of the very same fish you’ve been gawping at served up on a dish at of several excellent fish restaurants in La Restinga. If you are interested in diving, La Restinga is also where most of the diving schools are.

In Tacarón, as in a number of bathing areas on El Hierro, there are barbecues with pine logs thoughtfully provided. If you fancy catching your own fish make sure you purchase a licence.

Walk across the shore on the left for a few hundred metres and you will find an remarkable deep cave, La Cueva del Diábolo. You’ll want to bring a torch to explore this properly. A short way above where you park your car there is a track off to the left (facing away from the ocean) which takes you to a little hidden cove with red sand (low tide only). You have to take a slightly hazardous path over loose ash followed by a scramble over boulders so this is really only for intrepid travellers, but this rare beach is a hidden gem.